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Post by Melodic Dreamer on May 23, 2015 18:42:44 GMT
Over the past year I have been wanting to finish my pedalboard. It seems that everything has gotten in the way of my goal until now. I am finally ready to do this. I have talked to jnepo1 on TGP about making me some custom length patch and power cables. The only thing I need to do is take the measurements for the cables. I want to make the board as quiet as possible. So to my question. Is there any right and wrong ways of running patch and power cables? I've read where some people mention running them parallel, or crossing at a 90ยบ angle. I've also read where this is load of crap, so I'm just curious if this matters? My board is going to be a little tight after adding the trim. I've already painted it black and I'm cutting out the trim today. Here is a pic of the basic layout on the bare board. www.flickr.com/photos/131633513@N06/shares/t85H55Any advice must appreciated. |
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Post by Rambler on May 23, 2015 20:05:18 GMT
Sorry melodic dreamer I know very little about such things. If I were you, I'd contact the guy from the Gigrig- there is no greater authority on such matters. Check out his video for Ed OBriens unbelievably awesome pedal board.
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Post by 19thcentsawmill on May 23, 2015 20:39:29 GMT
Running the 115vac parallel (physically) with any low volt DC could cause noise. Separating them is key; either with air or even separate "trays" is preferred. Running them perpendicular is a fix that works most times but keeping them separated is best. There are so many things outside of your control that might cause noise; grounding issues, fluorescent lights, etc. Preventing the things that might cause noise is just "best practice" in my opinion. The pedal power units you are using are great noise prohibitors. Advice for which you didn't ask :-). Did you consider using a George L cable kit? www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/GLFXKit?adpos=1o1&creative=55282474801&device=t&matchtype=&network=g&gclid=CJuW5aXW2MUCFQaraQodb4IAdQ. Using these kits has been some of my favorite hours....configuring and reconfiguring my pedal board. |
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Post by Melodic Dreamer on May 23, 2015 21:55:10 GMT
Hey, thanks for the advice. I've never been a fan of GL's or any solderless cables. Jerry is great though. He's respected among various forums. He builds pedalboards and custom effects loops. He has quoted me a great price on soldered magomi patch cables.
Did you by chance look at the pic? Any advice on wiring?
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Post by 19thcentsawmill on May 23, 2015 23:37:35 GMT
Understood. Mogami is excellent cable and solder is definitely better. I am convinced that better cable and connections does make a difference. My most recent pedal wiring order preferences/practices have been: tuner-> boost-> Trem-> delay -> reverb->........then sometimes I add --> filter -> looper-> freeze. Conventional board order mixed with a somewhat unconventional board order. At home, I think it is fun to switch the order, turn on a recorder and see what happens. At my most recent gigs, I get to play siting down, so, I put the first pedalboard in a chair next to me and tweak knobs as I play. The second pedalboard (if I take it) goes on the floor.
If you will be standing and the board is on the floor, the only suggestion I would make is to get the pedals you will engage the most closest to the front edge so that you don't have to reach over (or bump) other pedals, switches and knobs with your foot. Your board looks very cool and it looks like you have put a lot of thought into it.
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Post by uburoibob on May 27, 2015 11:52:44 GMT
While I worked at Whirlwind for ten years, I am not sure about the AC line question. I do know that it would have a lot to do with that actual AC circuit, so better to be safe than sorry. I think PedalTrain does it right with the provision for mounting a Voodoo Labs 4x4 (or others) under the pedal board with a direct line to the back of the board so the AC cable is only under their power supply.
As far as soldered vs solderless cables, a bad cold solder joint is always worse than a good, well executed solderless joint. I have no problem with solderless cables. Also, for the very short runs, I don't hear any difference whatsoever with Hosa 6" cables vs expensive ones. For longer runs, where you may encounter serve shield separation, accumulated resistance or reduced capacitance, yes, you want the best cables you can get.
Anyway, that has been my experience thus far. While some claims of boutique cable brands may show marginally better specs on a scope, it is not critical for really short runs, where the length is not cumulative, but starts anew after every pedal.
Bob
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